Isaan Spice

Isaan Spice

The spiciest som tum in Bangkok? It’s only been a few weeks since I left Isaan, but I’m never far from an order of freshly pounded som tum (green papaya salad). So when a...

A Khon Kaen retreat

A Khon Kaen retreat

An introductory bite at Krua Supanniga by Khunyai Somsie Doing research for a guide book can be back-breaking and uncomfortable work. I, an out-of-shape 50-year-old woman, have had to comport myself like a 20-year-old...

I’m not done with Loei yet

I’m not done with Loei yet

Water olive chili dip at ChabaaBarn in Udon Thani Loei seems like a wild place — even its very name means “beyond” — but it is in actuality very charming and slow. The forests...

Becoming a Loei-about

Becoming a Loei-about

Shrimp fritter and a local fish larb on the Mekhong One of the things about turning 50 is seeing — or I should say experiencing — how quickly my eyesight and hearing have deteriorated....

Glutton Abroad: Barcelona, Part 3

Glutton Abroad: Barcelona, Part 3

Whole swordfish for sale at Barcelona’s commercial seafood market I stayed up late after returning from Gramona, mainlining coffee and watching “Below Deck” on the couch in order to stay awake. It was imperative...

Glutton Abroad: Barcelona, Part 2

Glutton Abroad: Barcelona, Part 2

Poached egg over chickpeas and ham with summer truffles at Gramona’s family restaurant The piece of paper, hastily scribbled in red ink by Chef Jordi, read “12:30 Cerveceria Catalanas”. By the time we’d arrived...