What’s Cooking: Pla rah sub

What’s Cooking: Pla rah sub

Lauren and I are working on our next cookbook, and just started testing recipes again — me doing the easy ones, Lauren stuck with the hard ones. One of the very easy ones I’ve...

Glutton Abroad: Tokyo, Untethered

Glutton Abroad: Tokyo, Untethered

New Year’s soba on a train platform in Nagano There is a scene in “Exorcist 3” that is considered one of the scariest of all time. When things are labeled like that on Youtube,...

Visiting the Center of Beyond

Visiting the Center of Beyond

Tender beef soup noodles at Muang Loei Pochana I’ve been to Loei more than a couple of times now, after falling in love with the province just last year on a research trip. Its...

Rewriting history

Rewriting history

A selection of much-coveted mild Sriracha sauces at Hattakamamakarn This was a long, long time ago, but there used to be a band called The Lover Speaks. I first heard them on the radio...

Eating our history

Eating our history

The excellent e-mee at Yim Yum in Chinatown I finally got around to watching “Hunger” on Netflix, and I have to say, I’m not sure any chef would saddle their restaurant — much less...

Respect for the Hustle

Respect for the Hustle

Because people know that I mainly write about Thai food and can get riled up easily, they like to show me this-or-that made-up list that presumes to rank all of the foods (or eateries)...

The Master of Claypot Crab

The Master of Claypot Crab

The “claypot” shrimp at Somsak Pu Ob Mother’s Day in Thailand falls every year on August 12, the birthday of Queen Sirikit the Queen Mother. At Emporium, there has been a Mother’s Day promotion...